How to choose a men's suit by size

In modern society, it is far from uncommon to see costumes that are well set on the figure of the owners. It has long been known that a person dressed not only in fashion, but also in size, looks much more attractive and better than someone who wears baggy or too little pants, a shirt and a jacket. Men in suitable suits have an excellent trump card both in the process of communication with women, and in business negotiations, and in general at work. It is important to understand that in the image it is important not only the style of the costume, but also its proportions with a cut. We have prepared detailed material with a lot of recommendations from experts. From it you will learn about the types of men's suits, existing tailoring technologies, models and how to choose the style, color and where what suit can be worn on the basis of destination. Remember that a high-quality suit will surely emphasize your individuality if it fits well on the figure.

The best manufacturers of men's suits - which company to choose

The production of men's suits has a very long history of occurrence. Over the course of several centuries, there have been several ateliers in which monarchs, politicians, actors, businessmen, artists and other people of the first size once dressed. In such houses, all traditions that are passed down from generation to generation are still preserved.

A peculiar Mecca is Savile Row Street in the UK. It is here that the concentration of tailors and craftsmen to the top. To this day, most brands prefer to sew men's suits exclusively by hand. Although some younger brands try new and combine hand-made with machine.

In addition to the famous atelier, working in the field of individual orders, there are also a lot of companies developing men's suits for mass production and sales in stores around the world. The list below contains manufacturers of all three categories.

• Henry Poole & Co;
• Gieves & Hawkes;
• Brioni;
• Pal Zileri;
• Hugo Boss.

For a special occasion it is best to have a suit from tailors who know their business. Of course, the cost of such a product will be considerable, but worth it. But for everyday wear, you can buy a more democratic option, where the best combination of price and quality.

In any case, even a costume purchased in a shop can be adjusted to a figure in the studio closest to the house, if necessary. If you are already interested in finding a particular model, then go to our ranking of the best men's suits.

Features tailoring men's suits

A men's suit is clothing that traditionally includes pants, a jacket and a vest. Usually, all three items are made from the same material.

Classic models are trousers with a jacket, sometimes with a vest, complemented by a shirt, tie, shoes, and less often a chest scarf, hat, and a pocket watch with a chain that passes through the button cuts of the vest.

Men's suits vary in:

1. Sewing technologies (bespoke, made-to-measure, pret-a-porter);

2. Type jacket models (single-breasted, double-breasted);

3. Purpose (business card, tuxedo, tailcoat, informal and business suits);

4. Color;

5. Style (English, Italian, German and others).

In its usual form, the suit appeared in the sixties, it is two with a single-breasted jacket. But if earlier the classic suit was casual wear, then at the moment it has significantly lost ground.

The current owners usually refer to connoisseurs of the classical style, but in other cases, costumes are purchased for certain occasions, such as official events, holidays, visits to various cultural institutions, prestigious work, or public speaking.

Types of men's suits

English

English costumes stand out among others with their strict and classic style. The emphasis is on the humeral line and the back, and they are also slightly fitted. Usually it is either two or three. Jackets are both single-breasted and double-breasted.

They have small bevelled shoulder pads, lapel pockets are also beveled. Such suits fit well on slender men, people with a different build should choose something else.

Advantages:

• suitable for men of short stature;
• emphasizes slender silhouette;
• internally "collects" the owner.

Disadvantages:

• will not sit on people more than the average build.

Italian

Italian costumes are particularly elegant. They have a great fit strictly on the figure. It should be noted that in Italy there are two conceptually different approaches to tailoring of suits depending on the region.

In the northern part of the tailors make representative models that are designed for business people. Among the features here are straight trousers, single-breasted jackets with a slight fit and a sharp shoulder line.

In the south, on the contrary, the costumes have an informal, slightly imposing style. Their jackets do not have strict lines, they are sewn without linings, and their trousers are slightly shortened and tapered down. Despite this, the short length of the pants does not reduce the length of the legs. Such suits are ideal for hot weather.

Advantages:

• suitable for men with different builds;
• gives an image of elegance;
• South Italian models are good in hot weather.

Disadvantages:

• not identified.

American

American costumes are renowned for comfort and comfort. True, such garments are relevant only for informal exits. Jackets are sewn without shoulder pads, do not have an accent on the waist, but only slightly adjacent to the thighs.

They can be double-breasted (there are deep lapels and finishing buttons, located at a great distance), and single-breasted (central spline and two or three buttons). In general, the costumes are slightly shortened.

Advantages:

• comfortable while wearing;
• perfectly sit on a plump figure;
• suitable for men with a problem waist zone.

Disadvantages:

• not recommended for business and official meetings.

German

German costumes are sewn from a special fabric, which is able to maintain its original shape for a long time. Traditional costumes differ in some baggyness and an abundance of lining fabric, as well as in loose fit.

Spacious sleeves are usually unbuttoned. Button loops are sheathed manually after cutting, which gives the models a high price and prestige.

Advantages:

• special non-removable fabric is used;
• free cut;
• comfortable sock;
• suitable for men of different build.

Disadvantages:

• characteristic baggy will not go thin.

European

European costumes are a category of slightly modified classic models. Such simplicity came into vogue in the eighties of the last century. It is expressed in the extended shoulder line, the greater width of the pants and elongation of the jacket by about five centimeters.

The jacket has no cuts, it can be double-breasted and single-breasted. Low-rise jackets and narrowed trousers are sewn.

Advantages:

• simple and comfortable to wear;
• there is a modification for low people;
• perfectly emphasizes a good figure.

Disadvantages:

• will not suit plump men.

Men's suit selection options

Type of figure

First of all, decide what type of figure you have. Do not hesitate and look at yourself with a truthful look, appreciating all the pros and cons. Remember that there are no symmetrical people and you can adjust anything.

1. Suits from dark fabrics in a thin vertical strip are able to visually make you taller and slimmer, and to a wide one - to give the missing volume.

2. Thin help light materials and drawing in a cage.

3. If you want to expand non-athletics chest, then you should choose a suit with narrow lapels, wide fit only tall.

4. A short jacket is recommended to small people.

5. If you need to visually reduce growth, then you need to take the costumes, where the jacket has a low waist.

Colour

The color scheme of the suit should be in harmony with the skin, eyes and hair. But this is all very individual, so be sure when trying on a product, pay attention to the combination.

Remember also the rules: the more formal the situation, the stricter the design and color of the costume. For daily wear recommended all gray shades. The universal can still be attributed to black and dark blue.

Jacket model

1. Single Breasted. The most comfortable jacket model chosen by the majority. He has a row of buttons on one side, and loops for them on the other. Differs in universality and suits the most different figures.

2. Double breasted. A less popular jacket model, characterized by greater severity. It is his advice to wear at official events, not forgetting to fasten buttons without exception, there are two rows of them here. Perfectly sit on tall and thin men.

Purpose

1. Formal or formal costumes

For exceptional cases, suitable "business card" (jacket, with tapering sides, forming a cone-shaped notch). For evening occasions the best option would be a tuxedo (has long satin lapels). A dress coat is recommended for special occasions (the suit jacket is short in front and has narrow but long tails in the back).

2. Informal suits

There are no strict rules here. These costumes are in contrast to the dress code. They express the personality of the wearer and can be sewn from any fabric with any pattern. For friendly meetings and parties, casual suits are suitable, where there is a rather loose fit in a jacket and trousers. Seasonal costumes are designed for summer holidays, are made of cotton, silk, flax. They may look sloppy and even lightly meaty.

3. Business suits

Suits of business style differ in tailoring. This suits English, American and North Italian costumes. They are strict in form, fabric, color and pattern. Sitting on the owner should be comfortable so that during a meeting or a speech a person is not constrained. No additional and unnecessary details should be.

Sewing technology

1. Bespoke tailoring. It is convenient because all the patterns are made for a specific customer. This ensures a perfect fit. The fabric is cut only by hand, and the assembly is made without any adhesive substances. This technology is considered the top of tailor craftsmanship. The only minus is long terms and high cost of work.

2. Made-to-measure. This technology has something from Bespoke tailoring combined with new industrial capabilities. Patterns here are not created from scratch, but are customized to fit the client. But full consideration of wishes is preserved. The waiting time is much shorter, only one fitting is required and the price is much cheaper.

3. Pret-a-Porter. Already finished costumes that can be found in all outlets. Uses averaged standard patterns. It is rather difficult to choose an ideally sitting product, especially for people with a non-standard figure.

Which suit for a man to choose

1. Low men with a slim figure is best to choose a suit in the English style.

2. For those who are looking for elegance, we recommend Italian costumes.

3. If convenience and comfort are important to you, then take a look at American costumes, they are perfect for plumper ones.

4. If your body size is more than normal, then choose a German-style suit for a business meeting.

5. For statuesque and tall men with a good figure, we recommend European costumes. For low there is a special modification.

6. Lean should choose light fabrics and three-dimensional patterns, but a fitted silhouette. Plump, on the contrary, darker and freer cut.

7. If you can not decide on the color scheme, then purchase universal shades: black, dark blue and gray.

8. For greater convenience, we recommend choosing a single-breasted jacket. Tall and slim will be well in double-breasted.

9. For special occasions, you should buy a business card or tailcoat, and for evening exits - a tuxedo.

10. For friendly parties, for the summer and for everyday wear, choose informal suits.

11. If you are unlimited in funds, then do not hesitate to contact bespoke tailoring.

12. Those who care about time should choose made-to-measure sewing technology.

13. If you like to experiment and look for something new, then prefer pret-a-porter costumes.

How much is a men's suit

1. The most expensive costumes are from the oldest English studios using bespoke tailoring tailoring technology. The cost of the order starts from 60 thousand rubles and can reach up to one million.

2. Made-to-measure products are several times cheaper. A good suit can be sewn in 40-200 thousand rubles.

3. Among the pret-a-porter there are men's suits for a variety of prices. They start at a few thousand rubles and end with hundreds.

4. Modern fashion houses offer to purchase costumes for 20-150 thousand rubles.

5. Untitled ateliers for work will take from 10 to 50 thousand rubles, depending on the complexity.

6. Special suits with a tailcoat, tuxedo and business card will cost more than business ones. Price hovers around 30-70 thousand rubles.

7. Three-piece suits will cost 10-20 thousand rubles.

8. Summer models of suits (single-season) will cost 5-50 thousand rubles, depending on the brand.